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Old 10/12/2013, 05:28 PM   #451
e55driver
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Jedimasterben can you post a part number for the bearings and where to get them?


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Old 10/13/2013, 11:37 AM   #452
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These are the MP10 bearings I use: http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit7471


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Old 10/14/2013, 05:18 AM   #453
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What he used is on the first page of the post. If you don't have a mechanical background or understand the types of bearings then it is very important that you read the first two pages in order to get the right equipement the first time. I ordered mine from bearings Direct.
And I qoute:

"Lastly, the bearings that I used were

607Z (7 X 19 X 6)

and

698ZZ (8 X 19 X 6)"


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Old 10/14/2013, 10:23 AM   #454
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+1

i tried to explain the bearing sizes and numbers/letters


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Old 02/12/2014, 08:05 PM   #455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimasterben View Post
After becoming a near expert in opening up the dry side after not one, not two, but three failed bearing replacements on an MP10, the fourth time was the charm.

The first two times, I just thought I got bad bearings. They didn't help with the noise at all. I sold that MP10 for dirt cheap and moved on.

A few weeks ago, I bought another one that was supposed to be quiet, but was loud as all hell. I figured I'd give bearing replacement one more shot and ordered the same bearings as the two times before (from Boca Bearings, SS ABEC 5 shielded), and guess what... still loud as hell.

That's when I really went into read mode. Read through this thread and a few others around the net, and decided to purchase chrome steel ABEC1 rubber sealed bearings from VXB. They came Thursday, and today was the first chance I could get to install them. Popped the dry side open (literally took me less than a minute, I've got it down pat lol), pulled the old bearings off and installed the new ones. WHOA. Silence.


Here are videos I made documenting the noise they make.

MP10 without new bearings: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FA5YH5cb4s

MP10 with SS shielded bearings from Boca: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Mu5N4tJZks

MP10 with CS rubber sealed bearings from VXB: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ljcu_uboQ1M


The last video picked up the sound a little too well (it was filmed on a different phone), unless I press my ear up to the dry side, I cannot hear it.

Now that I know that chrome steel sealed are what is needed, I'll be ordering two sets to go ahead and replace the ones in my two MP40wES.
Hey, how are these bearings working out for you? If well, do you have a link for them? I need them for an MP40 so will try and find the right size in your style. Thx


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Old 02/12/2014, 08:15 PM   #456
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After running on my 80g tank (3/8" glass) for a few months at 50% constant mode, no noise at all, it was wonderful. I took down that tank and put it on a temporary 40g tank (1/4" glass) on 100% short pulse mode. Within two days I started hearing the typical grinding noise. The MP10 manual says on page 9 that for 1/4" to 3/8" glass no spacer is required - but after putting the spacer on, the unit is much quieter, but is still loud. The dry side is also so hot that it is very unpleasant to hold my hand to it. I believe a combination of the thinner glass putting more forward pressure on the bearings and the heat may be burning off the lubrication are playing a part in that.

I have two MP40, as well. One has a new wetside and has always had some motor noise. No grinding, just an audible spinup noise. I replaced the bearings with the same style as I used on the MP10, and there was no change at all - meaning that for this particular unit, the noise is actually from the motor, not the bearings. The MP40 also has a metal shell, so it stays much cooler than the MP10 does, I can hold my hand to it no problem on 100% constant mode.


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Old 03/25/2014, 03:12 AM   #457
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Everyone's info has been extremely helpful. I have two secondhand MP40 pumps. One is very quiet but the other is considerably louder. I ordered these bearings from eBay.



I replaced the bearings in the louder pump and was very happy with the results. The louder pump was now almost as quiet as the second pump. When I say quiet, I mean you need to be within about five feet to really notice anything but even with my ear up close to the pump it's still pretty quiet. Even though the pump with the new bearings was almost as quiet as the second I still wanted to trying to find the reason they were a little different. I found the pump with the new bearings was vibrating more than the other. I then switched the magnets on the two pumps and sure enough, the pump with the new bearings was now even quieter and it did not vibrate as much. Long story short, the pump with the noisy bearings has a magnate that is a little out of balance which I feel attributed to the bearing failure. I ordered a cheap prop balancer which will hopefully allow me to balance the magnet.

I don't know how well these bearings will perform over time but they are less than $1 per bearing. I think the key to long bearing life is to make sure your dry side magnet is balanced and the pumps dry and wet side are lined up properly.


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Old 08/06/2014, 09:48 PM   #458
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Another satisfied customer. My dry side (mp40w es) was loud enough to hear it two rooms away (approximately 40 feet) and chattered when at the lowest rpm setting.

The bearings pulled bearings from dry side were - nmb 607z and nmb R-1980KK.
I replaced them with Boca Bearing MR607-2RU TH9/C3 and X-MR698-EPS.

I just did a slight test and while not silent they are significantly quieter. While testing the pump I could not hear it on the high setting from 6 feet away.


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Old 08/06/2014, 09:53 PM   #459
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What's the bearing numbers for the MP60?


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Old 08/07/2014, 06:54 AM   #460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlv0lpk View Post
Another satisfied customer. My dry side (mp40w es) was loud enough to hear it two rooms away (approximately 40 feet) and chattered when at the lowest rpm setting.

The bearings pulled bearings from dry side were - nmb 607z and nmb R-1980KK.
I replaced them with Boca Bearing MR607-2RU TH9/C3 and X-MR698-EPS.

I just did a slight test and while not silent they are significantly quieter. While testing the pump I could not hear it on the high setting from 6 feet away.
The ones that I've replaced have gotten a little quoted over a week or two, so the bearings probably have a sort of break-in period, so if you're happy now, you might be even happier soon

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmorty217 View Post
What's the bearing numbers for the MP60?
Interesting, are your MP60s bearings loud? They should theoretically not have this issue due to better build quality and active cooling. I believe heat is the main cause of bearing failures, mostly in the MP10 since it has a plastic housing and no vents, the MP40 at least has a metal housing which usually makes them last longer.

I've never seen someone replace the MP60 bearings before that I have found, so you will need to pop yours open and measure them as well as you can.


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Old 08/07/2014, 08:40 AM   #461
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Well the motor is loud IMO but that could just be me, I also need a new wet side for my 60 so I will try that first before trying to ruin my dry side and see if that was it.


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Old 08/07/2014, 08:41 AM   #462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmorty217 View Post
Well the motor is loud IMO but that could just be me, I also need a new wet side for my 60 so I will try that first before trying to ruin my dry side and see if that was it.
If the wet side was off-balance, then that could make some motor noise. Give it a shot and let us know


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Old 08/07/2014, 01:22 PM   #463
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Originally Posted by jedimasterben View Post
These are the MP10 bearings I use: http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit7471
How are these working for you on the MP10s? I have two MP10s, and they seem to have a "whirring" sound when on higher speeds. Not terribly annoying...you can hear them across the room when there is no TV or radio on. When those (TV, radio) are on I don't notice it at all.

I might pick up a set of these (how many do I need for each MP10 dry side?) for when I need to replace them.

EDIT: I looked back in the thread...two bearings for each dry side. Still have question if they remain quiet for you before I order.



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Old 08/07/2014, 04:38 PM   #464
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Originally Posted by hilgert View Post
How are these working for you on the MP10s? I have two MP10s, and they seem to have a "whirring" sound when on higher speeds. Not terribly annoying...you can hear them across the room when there is no TV or radio on. When those (TV, radio) are on I don't notice it at all.

I might pick up a set of these (how many do I need for each MP10 dry side?) for when I need to replace them.

EDIT: I looked back in the thread...two bearings for each dry side. Still have question if they remain quiet for you before I order.
The first time I replaced it was with ceramic bearings and it was louder than before. Right now it's got these in it, and while they started out with a whir, it went away after a little while.


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Old 04/28/2015, 07:06 PM   #465
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Well, I come to share less than happy news with this thread.

First, some background. For better or worse, I am a mechanical engineer, and work in the gas turbine engine industry. To make myself a bit more dangerous, I am also mechanically inclined. So moving into this DIY, I was not all that intimidated by it.

Disclaimer: I did not have a bearing splitter ready (and I regret that)

I've had two MP40s for about 4 years, and they been used continuously over that time. They've always been loud, but the past couple years they've certainly become even louder. So with the QD version coming out, I was pretty convinced I could just make my old MP40s plenty quiet enough for me.

They came apart just fine. The magnet on each was not balanced, but no worries - a prop balancer made that pretty simple. One thing to note there; I was using a classic Du-Bro brand balancer, and quickly I realized the metal in the stand was influencing the magnet, and therefore not at all indicating how it was out of balance. Just something for others to be careful of.

The old bearings were on very tight, as others have found. Consistently, the stock bearings on mine were also nmb 607z and nmb R-1980KK. The glass side bearing came off pretty easy at room temp, once it was moved just a tiny bit off its seated position. The opposing side bearing away from the glass is very stubborn and on the shaft really tight. I managed to get the first vortech done, but on the second one, it was with this bearing where the trouble happened...

I was merely holding the magnet, and gently trying to pry the outer bearing away with a small screw driver. I was NOT prying against the magnet, but intentionally away from it. And then this happened:


I'm pretty convinced the magnet had become embrittled with heat over the course of usage in 4 years. But had I used a bearing splitter, I would have avoid the costly need of a whole new dry side.



Other notes for others:
I used the boca bearings which had also been recommended for the MP40s: MR607-2RU TH9/C3 and X-MR698-EPS

X-MR698-EPS is a terrible choice. I am unsure if perhaps something about their spec has changed since they were recommended, but they are so tight out of the package they literally will not spin. I had to clamp the inner race with the right size channel locks in order to force the outer race to start spinning, and even then these bearings are really notchy. Avoid them!

MR607-2RU TH9/C3 is a really nice bearing; feels and (I think) sounds great. With a tuned ear, I'm pretty confident I can only hear the notchy bearing in the working vortech, and not a peep from this one.

So X-MR698-EPS will be replaced with MR698-2RU TH9/C3; the equivalent type of the smaller bearing.


Last tip: I didn't see anyone mention this in the whole thread, and I may well have missed it in 19 pages, but a small 7 & 8mm sockets are perfect for tapping the new bearings on the shafts. I see most people are apply some force on the outer race upon assembly, and that's really not the way to go about things.

MOST IMPORTANT TIP: USE A BEARING SPLITTER for dis-assembly. It's worth the ~$30 insurance.


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Old 04/29/2015, 05:18 PM   #466
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Oh, one more thing I observed on the MP40s and forgot to mention.

The axial face of the shaft which mates with the magnet (glass side) is very rough. This is certainly intentional to help this end of the shaft "bite" into the magnet and keep the magnet from spinning. And it works well, with the coated magnet.

However, there's also radial clearance between the countersunk retaining screw and the magnet, so the only way the magnet gets a radial pilot is by virtue of the countersunk screw. But, with the end of the shaft as rough as it is, I feel there is potential for the frictional clamping force to overcome the countersink, meaning the screw could be tight but the magnet is eccentric. This scenario clearly presents a balance issue.

I would recommend to rotate the rotor in a vertical position with the glass side down when reattaching the magnet. This will allow gravity to help prevent premature contact of the magnet to the rough end of the shaft, and will allow the countersunk screw to best center the magnet.


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Old 04/30/2015, 04:07 PM   #467
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evolved View Post
Well, I come to share less than happy news with this thread.

First, some background. For better or worse, I am a mechanical engineer, and work in the gas turbine engine industry. To make myself a bit more dangerous, I am also mechanically inclined. So moving into this DIY, I was not all that intimidated by it.

Disclaimer: I did not have a bearing splitter ready (and I regret that)

I've had two MP40s for about 4 years, and they been used continuously over that time. They've always been loud, but the past couple years they've certainly become even louder. So with the QD version coming out, I was pretty convinced I could just make my old MP40s plenty quiet enough for me.

They came apart just fine. The magnet on each was not balanced, but no worries - a prop balancer made that pretty simple. One thing to note there; I was using a classic Du-Bro brand balancer, and quickly I realized the metal in the stand was influencing the magnet, and therefore not at all indicating how it was out of balance. Just something for others to be careful of.

The old bearings were on very tight, as others have found. Consistently, the stock bearings on mine were also nmb 607z and nmb R-1980KK. The glass side bearing came off pretty easy at room temp, once it was moved just a tiny bit off its seated position. The opposing side bearing away from the glass is very stubborn and on the shaft really tight. I managed to get the first vortech done, but on the second one, it was with this bearing where the trouble happened...

I was merely holding the magnet, and gently trying to pry the outer bearing away with a small screw driver. I was NOT prying against the magnet, but intentionally away from it. And then this happened:


I'm pretty convinced the magnet had become embrittled with heat over the course of usage in 4 years. But had I used a bearing splitter, I would have avoid the costly need of a whole new dry side.



Other notes for others:
I used the boca bearings which had also been recommended for the MP40s: MR607-2RU TH9/C3 and X-MR698-EPS

X-MR698-EPS is a terrible choice. I am unsure if perhaps something about their spec has changed since they were recommended, but they are so tight out of the package they literally will not spin. I had to clamp the inner race with the right size channel locks in order to force the outer race to start spinning, and even then these bearings are really notchy. Avoid them!

MR607-2RU TH9/C3 is a really nice bearing; feels and (I think) sounds great. With a tuned ear, I'm pretty confident I can only hear the notchy bearing in the working vortech, and not a peep from this one.

So X-MR698-EPS will be replaced with MR698-2RU TH9/C3; the equivalent type of the smaller bearing.


Last tip: I didn't see anyone mention this in the whole thread, and I may well have missed it in 19 pages, but a small 7 & 8mm sockets are perfect for tapping the new bearings on the shafts. I see most people are apply some force on the outer race upon assembly, and that's really not the way to go about things.

MOST IMPORTANT TIP: USE A BEARING SPLITTER for dis-assembly. It's worth the ~$30 insurance.

Same thing happened to me as well but when I trying to pry the bearing off, it slipped out of my hands and fell onto the ground and split like yours. For the next one, I bought a bearing puller and wished I had done that with the first one. Live and learn


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Old 07/29/2015, 08:36 AM   #468
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I love you guys, you're the best. Now help me

I've been taking apart my franken-MP10w following the posted guides. I ended up stripping one of the 1.5" long screws internally holding the motor assembly together (I tried being careful, but it didn't work out). I ended up buying a screw extracting drill bit and have pulled it, but now I have to replace it. My question: Does anyone know what size that specific screw is? I believe it is 3/32 (measured diameter of non-threaded part with a digital caliper), but the screws measure a slightly larger diameter than the non-threaded barrel section. I was just going to order 5 3/32 x 1.5" screws off ebay since I can't find that small locally, but thought I'd check with this team first before waiting a week or two for the order to come in and then be the wrong size. I'm hoping to not need a bearing puller/separator, but we'll see about that.

I can take pictures. I've already taken a video of it and posted it in my build thread. It was loud as heck. It's also particularly a franken-MP10w because it has the old-style horizontal box MP40w controller attached to it, and I didn't have spacers for it despite running it on a 29g biocube with thin glass. It didn't come with a spacer, and I didn't know it needed it, so probably my fault it burnt up the bearing, though it was always quite noisy.

Your help is greatly appreciated! I'll be sure to post pics as it comes back together again.


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Old 07/29/2015, 09:35 AM   #469
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I was never able to find a screw that was long enough, even from Hillman directly.

I would either go without or look for a screw that's the right length, but slightly larger. If you tap the old threads to the larger size you'll be set.


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Old 07/29/2015, 09:58 AM   #470
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I looked on ebay, and they have an assortment of screws that should fit, i just need to know the right size. Ugh I posted 3/32 above, but last night I put 2-56 x 1.5" screws in my ebay shopping cart right after doing the measurements. I brought the screw with me to work, but no calipers here.

I might call around and see if there is a specialty hardware store somewhere in Manhattan that I could swing by today.


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Old 07/29/2015, 10:47 AM   #471
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There's a good chance many MP10s have different screws.

One of my motors still had the part# on it. When I looked it up there were about 50 Chinese manufacturers on Alibaba making it (end shaft and cord lengths were customizeable options). It appeared from the listings that they were intended for children's toys!


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Old 07/30/2015, 08:55 AM   #472
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Any thoughts based on these:

Diameter at the threads --> 2.4MM ~ 0.095" ~ 3/32"


Length --> 38.4MM ~ 1.5"



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Old 08/02/2015, 04:47 AM   #473
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Just called EcoTech. I needed a part for an MP-60 and they shipped it to me for FREE.

Just explain what you need and they may just throw you one.....can't hurt to ask.

FWIW


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Old 10/24/2015, 12:18 AM   #474
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Working on a vortech and no dice getting the bearing off the magnet on the first vortech. Worried the magnet is going to give. Very worried. It is cracking. I might try glueing it???

This is a pump from I think 2010. I had bought two. One right out the box was horrible, but I was overseas. I thought eh, I have a warranty. I literally ran it at the lowest I could to avoid the noise on the one. The other was a little annoying but bearable. It never went over 50%. I swear their warranty was longer than one year but when I wrote them like 15 months later, they said it was just a year. Used them all of a year and a half. Put them away and haven't used them since. I went back to my tunzes.

I just bought new wetsides. Why, why, why. I was thinking, hell I might as well try to use them. NO, no, no. I never liked them. Even the quieter one wasn't really quiet. But then I kept saying to myself, this bearing thing seems to work for most everyone. Banging my head against the wall. I should of just sold them on here and let them be someone else's problem.

Why would vortech not sell the magnet to someone whose magnet is broke??? I really just do not understand this company. It is a simple thing to just provide a part. But instead we have to pay 239$ for a new dry side. Are you fricken kidding me??? If they are worried someone is cheating the system then make them send a dry side, and sell them at a more reasonable price. A dry side and a wet side, is nearly the cost of a new complete pump.

I hope the magnet doesn't break. If it does, I hope I can glue it back together.

I hate these pumps. Worst money I ever spent on my tank.


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Old 12/28/2015, 12:55 AM   #475
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I know this has been asked in this topic before. but it's been over a year. I figured I would ask to see if there's been any improved bearings released? If so or if not can you provide a link to the bearing. Also I'm wanting to make sure that the links on Pg 5 are still the ones to get. I noticed they had different coloured shields does that mean anything?

Thanks!


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