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Old 05/11/2016, 05:37 PM   #251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kodo28 View Post
The skimmer has been running since 2 months now, I suppose the breaking periode is now over...
I changed the base plate on sump, so it is now only at 2 cm from the bottom. Pump is set at 32w and the pipe at the middle point 50% open.
Water level on skimmer body is very low withthose settings (see pictures)

Could this be due following issue on the pump nozzle?
I cannot insert the nozzle without pushing it down and then there is a small gap at the bottom between the pump and nozzle . Could it be that the pump is losing some kind of pressure there zffecting the water level in the body?




Yea, that pump nozzle needs to go all the way into the pump and it's certainly not helping you at all the way it is. With the nozzle not inserted into the pump like it is, it's not taking enough water into the skimmer. Instead it's pulling water from inside the skimmer instead of pulling it from outside. That will impact the water level in the skimmer body. Fix that and the skimmer will perform different and put you back to square 1. Give it 24 hours once you fix that so it can settle back down.


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Old 05/11/2016, 05:42 PM   #252
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As Scott stated - the nozzle needs to be seated in the volute properly, otherwise the pump is not pulling in the proper amount of water from the sump, rather recirculating some from inside the skimmer... this is very likely why your waterlevels are low inside the body.


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Old 05/11/2016, 05:44 PM   #253
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You are going to need to remove the skimmer from the sump and at the very least, loosen the base of the skimmer to fix that. You do not want to force the nozzle into the pump as you could end up cracking the skimmer body.


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Old 05/12/2016, 12:39 AM   #254
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Hi Scott,

The nozzle is already all the way in...the previous pictures only shows that the nozzle is not initially squared with the pump volute. The pump is sitting right in place into the base. Issue is that the hole on the skimmer body doesn't match the pump head...
To allow it to be full inserted into the pump, I need to make some pressure on it downside into the pump. Problem is then when the nozzle is full inserted in the pump there is a small gap at the bottom between pump volute and the nozzle due that the nozzle is not initially fully squared.
I think that could be the issue why I'm not getting water level has it should in the skimmer body without opening way to much the pipe.






Last edited by kodo28; 05/12/2016 at 12:51 AM.
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Old 05/12/2016, 09:54 AM   #255
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Hi Scott,

The nozzle is already all the way in...the previous pictures only shows that the nozzle is not initially squared with the pump volute. The pump is sitting right in place into the base. Issue is that the hole on the skimmer body doesn't match the pump head...
To allow it to be full inserted into the pump, I need to make some pressure on it downside into the pump. Problem is then when the nozzle is full inserted in the pump there is a small gap at the bottom between pump volute and the nozzle due that the nozzle is not initially fully squared.
I think that could be the issue why I'm not getting water level has it should in the skimmer body without opening way to much the pipe.


That looks better now. I think if you place the pump into the body and then insert the nozzle before adding the bottom plate, things will line up better. That said, a little gap where the nozzle goes into the body won't cause a big issue. A gap between the nozzle and the block will. There should be a slight amount of pressure on the body and nozzle to help keep it firmly in place. As for the water level, like I said, the water level is somewhat impacted by the amount of organics in the body. The proteins stick to the bubbles and then the bubbles stick to each other as they rise up the body. The lower the amount of dissolved organics, the lower the line where bubbles transition to foam and the deeper the skimmer will need to be run. Salinity can also have a big impact on that. The lower the salinity, the lower the line and the deeper you need to run the skimmer. Some people run their fish only systems at 1.021 or lower while us reef guys run between 1.025 and 1.026. With the higher salinity, we can run our skimmers shallower and or not have to close the wedge pipe as much. If you don't want to mess with your water level, you can always increase the pump speed to compensate for that. I just prefer and recommend the lower speed as it increases the contact time and generally results in better foam. Especially in a lower load system.


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Old 05/12/2016, 10:45 AM   #256
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The nozzle will sit inside the Volute. See below.





Watch the markings on the pipe...








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Old 05/13/2016, 01:22 AM   #257
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Hello Marco,

Thanks a lot for the pictures and video,

On video I can see how easily you push the nozzle into the pump volute with a small pressure and all the time the nozzle is squared with the pump volute.
On my case in order to insert the nozzle into the pump, I need to push it forward and down with a lot of pressure, causing the front of the pump to raise a little from the base...
Then when I release my hands from the nozzle, this one goes up due initial pressure that was needed to insert it into the pump (all this process is done without tighten screws)
This is causing to have a small gap at the bottom of the junction nozzle/pump. Then when I tight the screws the gap is even more visible.
There was definitely an issue on the measurement process to drill that hole...




Last edited by kodo28; 05/13/2016 at 01:36 AM.
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Old 05/13/2016, 07:26 AM   #258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kodo28 View Post
Hello Marco,

Thanks a lot for the pictures and video,

On video I can see how easily you push the nozzle into the pump volute with a small pressure and all the time the nozzle is squared with the pump volute.
On my case in order to insert the nozzle into the pump, I need to push it forward and down with a lot of pressure, causing the front of the pump to raise a little from the base...
Then when I release my hands from the nozzle, this one goes up due initial pressure that was needed to insert it into the pump (all this process is done without tighten screws)
This is causing to have a small gap at the bottom of the junction nozzle/pump. Then when I tight the screws the gap is even more visible.
There was definitely an issue on the measurement process to drill that hole...
Pascal,
Looking at the pictures again, it actually looks like the pump sits too far down into the recessed bottom plate, rather than the hole being off.

I saw Torstens email - looks like they will have you ship the unit back in for eval and corrective action. Since you are in France? - this will go direct through Germany.
I would go ahead and get the unit ready to ship ... safest bet.

Talk to you soon.


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Old 05/13/2016, 09:09 AM   #259
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Hi Marco,

Yes, something related with the pump base-plate or the drill to high in the skimmer body.
I received the Pick-up from my dealer and skimmer will be shipped back to Germany in order to check what's going wrong with it.
Hope they will check it soon as possible, cause I am leaving in vacation, middle of the next month for 3 weeks

Just by curiosity are you able to take following measurement


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Last edited by kodo28; 05/13/2016 at 09:19 AM.
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Old 08/15/2016, 09:11 PM   #260
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Dropped mine into 10.5 inches to try to get better performance. I have the valve closed about 80% and running the pump @38. I am just looking for more consistency in production from skimmer. I won't get anything for days then get a cup or so.

Corey


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Old 10/31/2016, 03:49 PM   #261
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my bk dc 150 skimmer is very noisy. When I touch the pump, I feel its vibrating. I also have rd3 return pump and other pump in sump but these are not vibrating. I had checked the rotor/impeller and see no grinding marks, its clean and no broken teeth. Cleaned the air tube and foam also. Skimmer is working well but with little noise. What else I can check? Volute turned 4 and vedge pipe half closed.

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Old 10/31/2016, 07:24 PM   #262
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my bk dc 150 skimmer is very noisy. When I touch the pump, I feel its vibrating. I also have rd3 return pump and other pump in sump but these are not vibrating. I had checked the rotor/impeller and see no grinding marks, its clean and no broken teeth. Cleaned the air tube and foam also. Skimmer is working well but with little noise. What else I can check? Volute turned 4 and vedge pipe half closed.

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If the pump is vibrating, I would remove and clean the bearing at the bottom of the magnet cavity. There are instructions for removing and re-installing the bearing in post number 2 of this thread. If there is calcium buildup inside the hole in the bearing or any friction at all, that could cause it. Also, make sure the end of the impeller shaft that goes into the bearing is nice and clean and smooth. If that's not it, you can try some more adjusting on the volute but that typically won't cause vibration. Instead it will cause surging.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2573406


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Old 11/09/2016, 10:24 AM   #263
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If the pump is vibrating, I would remove and clean the bearing at the bottom of the magnet cavity. There are instructions for removing and re-installing the bearing in post number 2 of this thread. If there is calcium buildup inside the hole in the bearing or any friction at all, that could cause it. Also, make sure the end of the impeller shaft that goes into the bearing is nice and clean and smooth. If that's not it, you can try some more adjusting on the volute but that typically won't cause vibration. Instead it will cause surging.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2573406
I had checked the pump and bearing on it and found that bearing is ok but rotor has grinding mark on only the bottom of the stick.

Here is the picture



I also found that cover o-ring on rotor piece is no tight. When I press anywhere on cover it is losing the right angle position. I mean it's not even/horizontal. If I remove the o-ring it's ok.

Here is the picture of it.






Do you recommend me to continue like that? Is this getting worse? If it can get worse I can close it and use my backup skimmer which is louder than this BK.


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Old 11/09/2016, 12:34 PM   #264
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I had checked the pump and bearing on it and found that bearing is ok but rotor has grinding mark on only the bottom of the stick.

Here is the picture



I also found that cover o-ring on rotor piece is no tight. When I press anywhere on cover it is losing the right angle position. I mean it's not even/horizontal. If I remove the o-ring it's ok.

Here is the picture of it.






Do you recommend me to continue like that? Is this getting worse? If it can get worse I can close it and use my backup skimmer which is louder than this BK.
The end of the shaft looks like it's fine. As does the o-ring. The o-ring doesn't provide a tight or water tight fit between the magnet cavity cover and the block. It's more of a spacer. What does concern me is the angle of that impeller. It looks like it's tilted to the side which isn't right. That me be an illusion because the magnet cavity shield floats freely until the the pump cover/volute locks it down. If you stand the impeller on a table with the needle wheel face down on the table, is the impeller shaft and magnet completely vertical?

If the answer is year, I would suspect the bearing isn't inserted properly into the block and may be sitting at an angle or may be upside down. Also, have you tried placing the pump in a bucket of water and running it with the skimmer to see if it's making noise?


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Old 11/09/2016, 01:08 PM   #265
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The end of the shaft looks like it's fine. As does the o-ring. The o-ring doesn't provide a tight or water tight fit between the magnet cavity cover and the block. It's more of a spacer. What does concern me is the angle of that impeller. It looks like it's tilted to the side which isn't right. That me be an illusion because the magnet cavity shield floats freely until the the pump cover/volute locks it down. If you stand the impeller on a table with the needle wheel face down on the table, is the impeller shaft and magnet completely vertical?

If the answer is year, I would suspect the bearing isn't inserted properly into the block and may be sitting at an angle or may be upside down. Also, have you tried placing the pump in a bucket of water and running it with the skimmer to see if it's making noise?
Answer is yes, it's totally vertical and if I close it without o-ring it's perfectly fit. Last time I perfectly put the impeller without any angle but the pump cover was very very hard to close with hand. Only screws can close it tightly.

I can check the bearing on bottom of motor block. But I don't know the right position, I put it with flat screwdriver, magnet on motor block suck it. Can you send an example picture or video of right bearing position? I will also try to run the pump in bucket.

Sorry for my poor English.


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Old 11/09/2016, 02:01 PM   #266
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Answer is yes, it's totally vertical and if I close it without o-ring it's perfectly fit. Last time I perfectly put the impeller without any angle but the pump cover was very very hard to close with hand. Only screws can close it tightly.

I can check the bearing on bottom of motor block. But I don't know the right position, I put it with flat screwdriver, magnet on motor block suck it. Can you send an example picture or video of right bearing position? I will also try to run the pump in bucket.

Sorry for my poor English.
If the pump cover is not going on easily and you need the screws to clamp it together, then your bearing isn't seated properly or is upside down. The bearing will "pop" into place. There is a slot in the bearing cavity that the o-ring sits in. It's a groove just below the top of the bearing cavity inside the motor block. You should not be using the impeller to seat the bearing down into the cavity as it will not push the bearing in far enough. I would suggest some PVC pipe that has an inside diameter that is smaller then the outside diameter of the bearing. That makes a good tool for pushing the bearing into place. If you have some silicone grease to put on the o-ring that is on the bearing that will help make it easier to seat it into place. Or you can use some saliva or water to wet it so it pops into place. The idea is to lubricate the bearing 0-ring so it slips into the cavity and into the slot that the o-ring fits into.

Take a look at post 2 in this thread. there are pictures and instructions for removing and installing the bearing.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2573406


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Old 11/11/2016, 01:03 PM   #267
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I removed the bearing on motor block and re put it and used flathead screwdriver to put o-ring. that's totally fixed my problem. Thank you slief. I always believe RE support is best.

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Old 11/11/2016, 01:50 PM   #268
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I removed the bearing on motor block and re put it and used flathead screwdriver to put o-ring. that's totally fixed my problem. Thank you slief. I always believe RE support is best.

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Great to hear & very glad to help!


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Current Tank Info: 480G display mixed reef, 90G sump, 90G refugium, 60G display refugium. Check out my build thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1783476
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Old 11/25/2016, 01:50 AM   #269
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Bubble king double cone 180 Red dragon 3

Bubble king double cone 180 Red dragon 3

I have had the Bubble king double cone 180 Red dragon 3 for about a week now. Where is this part suppose to go? I didnt see it listed as a part in my manual


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Old 11/25/2016, 10:57 AM   #270
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Bubble king double cone 180 Red dragon 3

I have had the Bubble king double cone 180 Red dragon 3 for about a week now. Where is this part suppose to go? I didnt see it listed as a part in my manual
That goes in the silcone tubing that the pump connects to on the skimmer and allows the RD3 pump to connect to the larger skimmers with larger ID silcone tubing. It's not needed with the Double Cone 180..


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Old 11/25/2016, 11:19 AM   #271
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Does the silencer on the DC200 just come apart by pulling it apart? I need to clean mine but didn't want to break it and it wasn't moving when I pulled a little bit on it


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Old 11/25/2016, 12:10 PM   #272
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Does the silencer on the DC200 just come apart by pulling it apart? I need to clean mine but didn't want to break it and it wasn't moving when I pulled a little bit on it


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The cap does pop off. The easiest way I've found to open it up is to remove the silencer from the wedge pipe and then take a long thin screw driver or in my case a skewer and insert it through the bottom of the silencer where the silicone air hose connects and push the lid off by holding the silencer in one hand and pushing the screwdriver up with the other. A little tap on the of the butt of the screw driver on countertop will work too. Just make sure the screw driver is completely vertical so you don't tweak or break the red tube that extends upwards inside the silencer when you pop lit silencer lid off. The silencer itself will pop right off the wedge pipe by twisting it or wobbling it or pulling upwards. Then disconnect the silicone tube from the bottom of it. It reconnect the silicone tube, push some tubing up into the wedge pipe so there is a bit of tubing sticking out the top of the wedge pipe. Then attach the silencer and gently pull the tubing back down the pipe until the silencer is can be pushed back onto the wedge. Be careful not to pull the tubing to hand and disconnect it from the silencer.



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Current Tank Info: 480G display mixed reef, 90G sump, 90G refugium, 60G display refugium. Check out my build thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1783476

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Old 12/12/2016, 11:47 AM   #273
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Help! my skimmer ( a Bubble king 200 double cone with RD3 pump) its overflowing and there is bubles all over... first i drive it wit 32Watt and the pipe half open... but after 4 month´s its starts bubling over.

yesterday i clean it up and cleaned the pump... its still bubling... i have taking a movie of it. on the movie its drive wit 26watts and full open pipe..

Please help me..
https://youtu.be/3j5G98L_Rww



PS. sorry my bad english, but im from Denmark :P


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Old 12/12/2016, 01:25 PM   #274
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ooh sorry.. my display tank is 400 liters and the sump is 200liters

i have theese fish

1x Zebrasoma flavescens
1x Zebrasoma veliferum
1x Ctenochaetus hawaiiensis
1x Paracanthurus hepatus
1x Salarias ramosus
2x clownfish
5x Chrysiptera hemicyanea
1x Siganus vulpinus
1x Halichoeres iridis
1x Tridacna maxima Blue

and corals:
1x Catalaphyllia jardinei
5x big hammer corals
1x pink hysterix
1x braincoral
1x alveopora
1xEuphyllia glabresens
and a lots more ( cant remember all the names )


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Old 12/12/2016, 01:33 PM   #275
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ooh sorry.. my display tank is 400 liters and the sump is 200liters

i have theese fish

1x Zebrasoma flavescens
1x Zebrasoma veliferum
1x Ctenochaetus hawaiiensis
1x Paracanthurus hepatus
1x Salarias ramosus
2x clownfish
5x Chrysiptera hemicyanea
1x Siganus vulpinus
1x Halichoeres iridis
1x Tridacna maxima Blue

and corals:
1x Catalaphyllia jardinei
5x big hammer corals
1x pink hysterix
1x braincoral
1x alveopora
1xEuphyllia glabresens
and a lots more ( cant remember all the names )
There may be a post from you that I am missing. That said, if you are inquiring about which skimmer to get for your sized display, I would suggest the Double Cone 180 or a Mini 180 of you don't have enough sump space for the Double Cone.


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